Some train access. But to get to the interesting sites, local bus is a necessity. Think of it as an adventure. And get ready to use non-verbal communication.
Foreign tourists are supposed to get insurance for bus trips and are normally charged twice the regular fare paid by locals. This occurs in the main parts of Gansu frequented by tourists but you might be able to avoid this in the outlying areas. CITS sells a policy as well as the Peoples Insurance Company of China.
